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Plovdiv Living Guide

Let it slip into a conversation that you live in Plovdiv and the first comment you’ll generally hear would be something like “Plovdiv… lucky you!” And what is it about Plovdiv that everyone in Bulgaria seems to know and be secretly envious of? Its warm, temperate climate? Its charming old town? Its laid-back, yet sophisticated townspeople? Its vibrant art and culture scene? Located on the banks of the Maritsa River about 150km southeast of Sofia, Plovdiv is Bulgaria’s second largest city, with a population of about 350 000. It draws both international and domestic visitors to its old town, international fair (the largest in the Balkans) and summer arts festivals. Fear not, for you’ll never be short of activities with which to fill your calendar in this city. What to see in PlovdivNo doubt that an expat’s first months in a new country will be spent in tourist mode. For newcomers to Plovdiv, that means that on your first day in town, you’ll be shown to the old town by any self-respecting Plovdivian. Not only that, you’ll be taken straight to Plovdiv’s Roman amphitheatre, which graces about 75 per cent of Plovdiv’s postcards. The other 25 per cent show Bulgarian national revival-era houses from the 18th to 19th centuries, of which you’ll also see many in Plovdiv’s old town. The city now known as Plovdiv was once called Trimontium, or Town of Three Hills, by the Romans in the first century CE. So, one of your duties as a resident is to pay pilgrimage by attempting to discover all three hills in the old town. Another attraction located on a hill (one of seven around which Plovdiv has developed over the centuries) great for weekend strolls is the Hill of the Liberators, on which stands a statue of a Russian soldier fondly referred to as Alyosha by Plovdivians. You can begin your walk up to Alyosha from the park at the intersection of Russki Bul and Petko Todorov Str. When you get to the top, strike up a conversation with a local and ask about the not-so-distant clamour over replacing Alyosha with a Coca-Cola billboard. Another attraction sure to please in Plovdiv is the Ethnographic Museum (2 Dr Chomakov Str; 032/ 225 656; Tues-Sun 9am-noon, 2pm-5pm, closed Mon and Fri mornings), located in the Argir Koyumdzioglou House (another postcard favourite) in old town. Check out costumes, crafts, artwork and other artifacts of traditional Bulgarian life. If antiquity is not your cup of tea and you prefer things more modern, try the Centre for Contemporary Art located in the ancient Turkish baths at the intersection of Shesti Septemvri Buk. and Tsar Boris III Obedinitel Str. Fans of Turkish aesthetic will appreciate the superb condition in which this banya has been preserved, and also the chance to glimpse what the inside of a traditional bath looked like with its outer and inner chambers. What’s more, you’ll be treated to exhibitions of photography or other media assembled by artists-in-residence. Check their website for coming exhibitions and events. Art fans will find plenty of galleries both in and out of old town for many afternoons of wandering. Expat life in PlovdivMost people planning on moving to Bulgaria have a hard time imagining what daily life might look or feel like. Before I moved here, my contact in Plovdiv informed me that everything I need would be available in Plovdiv. As soon as I moved here, I couldn’t agree more with how right she was. General activitiesFinding out what’s on at the International Plovdiv Fair (37 Tsar Boris III Obedinitel Str, 032/ 553 120) is never difficult, just look at the huge sign out front announcing the current fair. Throughout the year, the public can attend any number of events held here and spend a great day trolling for free samples, making business connections or practicing conversational French/German/Japanese/Mandarin with foreign visitors. Aside from the two large technology and consumer goods trade shows held in May and September, some of the fairs held throughout the year include: Education Fair in March, Vinaria wine fair in April, Kids Fairyland in October, Roma World in November, Christmas Fair in December and dog shows in March and November. Beginning where Knyaz Aleksandur intersects with Gladstone Str., Tsar Simeon Garden is the central park of Plovdiv. On any given gorgeous day in Plovdiv, you’ll find it packed to the brim with those anxious to enjoy the great outdoors. Friends and families crowd the park’s benches as everyone ogles at all the darling babies on parade. Over by the musical fountain, packs of teenagers hang out while couples attempt to get away from the crowds under a private tree. Shopping And while half of the city is taking pleasure in Tsar Simeon Garden’s lush environment, the other half is out getting retail therapy on Knyaz Aleksandur, Plovdiv’s main drag for those wanting to see and be seen. From designer gear to discount edin lev stores (those from the States will recognise these as the equivalent of dollar stores) and everything in between, there is plenty for everyone on this pedestrian-only street mall that stretches from the Maritsa to the Central Square where Tsar Simeon Garden begins. Hardcore shoppers will find endless windows to gaze at and doors to step in. Those of us less physically able need not worry, though. Knyaz Aleksandur is lined with cafés and dessert shops (sladkarnitsa) ready to amp up your blood sugar level when fatigue from shopping sets in. Oh, and while people watching at the many cafés at high traffic parts of the drag, don’t forget the requisite sunglasses to lower your sleaze factor and increase your cool factor. When you’re finished exploring Old Town, there’s more fun to be had downhill in the neighbourhood known as Kapana, or the Trap, a maze of orderless and narrow streets seemingly designed to ensnare. Don’t lose your cool if you can’t find your way out of this tiny neighbourhood of crooked streets. Simply embrace the mystery of the unknown and take your time peeking into stores peddling fashion, books, crafts, jewelry, electronics. One of my favourite finds in Kapana was the Chaenata Kushta, or The Tea House (10 Abadzhiiska Str; 032/ 635 589), where you can browse an endless selection of loose-leaf teas from China, Japan and other faraway places. Be kind and the gracious owner might brew you a hot cup of her wares. Ivan Vazov Str has unofficially been dubbed Shoe Street by certain residents of Plovdiv. You’ve got a new summer dress for which you need a pair of playful sandals? Hankering for a new pair of metallic boots for the coming winter? Look no further. Head directly to Ivan Vazov Str, where you’ll find block after block of shoes in stores big and small. Don’t be surprised if you see some cut-price shoes in these stores looking suspiciously similar to brand-name versions you might recognise. The outskirts of Plovdiv is home to a few shoe factories that manufacture for some of these labels. Stela Magasin (18 Gladstone Str; Mon-Fri 10.30am-7pm, Sat 10.30am-5pm) is a Soho-style boutique of funky women’s wear. Those looking to steer clear of local fashion trends can gear up at Stela’s to declare your own statement of fashion autonomy. Some of the pieces at Stela Magasin are one-of-a-kind finds, designed and made by store owner Stela herself. Her purses are also uniquely designed and handmade by Stela’s friend. Come here when you’re tired of looking like all the other girls at the disco or just to support a local artist/fashion designer. Expats living in Plovdiv cannot subsist on clothes and shoes alone, so when you’re ready to make use of that kitchen in your flat, consider these options for nourishment. Southern Bulgaria is blessed with the kind of climate that yields fresh produce year-round and most locals head to open-air produce markets, or pazars, on a weekly, sometimes daily, basis. In Plovdiv, the biggest pazar is the Thursday Market located on Shesti Septemvri Str near where it meets Russki Bul. It’s open seven days a week (not just Thursday!). Expats will learn much from the patient vendor-teachers there about Bulgarian vegetable names or even recipe ideas. Local neighbourhood stores can provide much of the other food and household items you’ll need. Beware though that items are usually placed behind the counter, so brush up on your Bulgarian vocabulary before shopping. Or, if you prefer to fondle your packages and examine jar labels before purchasing, Billa (122 Shesti Septemvri Str, 032/ 658 120; 2 Macedonia Bul, 032/ 657 010), Metro (135 Sankt Peterburg Bul, 032/ 605 103), and Sany (56 Kapitan Raicho Str, 032/ 682 171) are three hypermarkets (or, supermarkets kicked into turbo gear à la Walmart and Carrefour) serving the Plovdiv area. They are stocked to capacity with local and foreign goods and can provide a one-stop shopping alternative. Health and fitnessHaving all the kebapche and dyuner your heart desires is fine under winter layers, but when spring rolls around and fantasies fill your mind of a trim you prancing around the Black Sea coast, it’s time to hit the gym. Lucky for Plovdiv’s expats, there is Total Sport Fitness Club (13 Exarch Yosif Str, 032/ 625 151, 7am-10pm). This place really serves up a “total” fitness package complete with cardiovascular exercise machines, free weights and weight machines, group fitness classes (pilates, yoga, spinning, aerobics), massage and tanning facilities, and a health drink bar. Yogi expats will also be glad to know that Plovdiv houses at least six yoga studios around town, all of which list contact information in Programata, a free entertainment guide found in many Plovdiv establishments (also online at www.programata.bg). Entertainment and nightlifeFilm buffs need not worry that they’ll be cut off from their supply of Hollywood blockbusters. Plovdiv is home to two movie theaters: Lucky Cinema (1 Gladstone Str, 032/ 629 070) and Flamingo Cinema (128 Shesti Septemvri Str, 032/ 644 004). Both theaters regularly change their films and show a fair share of foreign cinema from the West as well as the East. And twice a year, Lucky Cinema participates in film festivals with other theaters in Bulgaria, each time showing nearly two weeks of the best of recent Bulgarian, European, Asian and American cinema. Infinity Dance Club (4 Bratya Polievi Str, 088/ 828 14 31; Tues-Sat 11am-6pm) is the oldie but goodie of Plovdiv clubs. While its nondescript exterior along with its Egyptian-motif interior doesn’t exactly scream 2007, the place is still packed on a weekly basis. If you’re looking to celebrate holidays or other major student events at Infinity, arrive early to ensure there is a space for you on the dance floor. Retro parties on Fridays. Marmalade Bar and Restaurant (3 Bratya Polievi Str, 032/ 631 834; Sun-Tues 9am-1am, Wed-Thu 9am-2am, Fri-Sat 9am-4am), directly across from Infinity, is its cooler younger sibling, with sleeker décor and varied attractions throughout the week to cater to varied crowds. Cough up one lev for Tuesday’s disco party nights, and three leva for Friday and Saturday’s DJ nights. Aspiring divos and divas can light up the stage on Wednesday’s karaoke night, and live music junkies need look no further to get their fix every Thursday night at Marmalade. Exit Discotheque (122 Maritsa Bul; 10.30pm-sunrise?) is a gathering place for folks from all walks of life who have one common characteristic: a commitment to partying the night away. Perched on the southern bank of the Maritsa, Exit’s an unassuming club that might not even draw a second glance in the daytime. But you’ll want to hit Retro Wednesday nights at Exit at least once while you’re in Plovdiv. Regardless of age, all goers sing along to songs from the last three decades and before you know it, you, too, might jump up onto the bar to sing and dance along with the boys of Exit as they wow you with their YMCA number! Where to eat in PlovdivAromatno Restaurant (10 Tsar Assen Str, 032/ 632 845; 8am-11pm) is a solid go-to eatery when you’re in the mood for no-frills but consistently delicious Balkan fare. It’s a small restaurant, so call ahead if you’re bringing your whole office (and by the way, it’s a nice-sized venue for office parties of 20 to 30 people). You’ll find your standard grilled goodies and salads along with a few other traditional Bulgarian dishes and an extensive wine and rakiya menu to boot. Chevermeto (15 Otets Paisii Str, 032/632 845; 11am – 12:30am), a restaurant serving up fine Rhodope and national Bulgarian cuisine, is perfect for entertaining out-of-town clients, ie, best when you’re not footing the bill and can go all out on the roast lamb on a spit (for which this establishment is named). The ambiance at this restaurant is top-class so leave the sweaty t-shirts and baseball caps at home. In the winter, a roaring fire in the centre of the restaurant does double-duty as the restaurant’s heater as well as lamb roaster. Mr. Pizza and Thai Express (14A Tsar Ivan Aleksander Str, 032/ 637 575; 11am-1am) has one dish that has me going back again and again – the coconut curry chicken. It doesn’t really remind my taste buds of fantastic green curries at favourite Thai eateries back home, but the coconut milk-based sauce definitely satisfies when I’m craving non-Balkan cuisine. And what luck that they’ll deliver my curry right to my door, too! Verdi Pizzeria (8 Otets Paisii Str, 19 Naiden Gerov Str; 032/ 9171 for delivery; 11.30am-11:30pm) is my favourite spot for pizza, salads and other finger foods. Choose from two different types of crust and even watch as they make your pizza. You can get an arugula salad with fresh parmesan cheese all year round and the mavrud is always poured from a freshly opened bottle. And I must mention that the corn flake-breaded chicken strips or cheese make a heavenly snack or appetiser! Verdi has one operation on Otets Paisii among a row of plastic tent restaurants behind Knyaz Aleksandur where it meets the mosque on Suborna Street. But I prefer the restaurant on Nayden Gerov, a quiet street between Plovdiv’s TV station and Tsar Simeon Garden. This location is much cosier and in warm weather, its outdoor seating opens onto a nice quiet street sans plastic tent. Located in the Trap, Killer (3 Zlatibor Str, Mon-Sat 8am-11pm) is worth the search, for it makes the best dyuner, according to local experts in the art of fast-food dining (ie, university students). Killer’s dyuners are authentically Arabic and each dyuner comes packed with chicken or beef, cabbage, onions and potatoes in your choice of a pita wrap or bread. The good folks here don’t try to make up for a small quantity of meat with an overdose of potatoes as other dyuner purveyors have been known to do. Head to Djumayata (2 Zhelezarska Str, 032/ 631 402; 7am-10pm) for the best banitsas and widest selection of baklava in Plovdiv. Not many places in Bulgaria offer coffee and seating to go along with your morning banitsa, so while you won’t find a brunch spread on offer here, Djumayata is a Sunday morning favourite. Or any morning favourite at that. And if morning is too early for you, this place is open all day. Brits can have afternoon tea here and desserts can be had by all at any time of day when a dose of sugar is needed. Look for the minaret near Phillip the Second of Macedonia’s fountain on Knyaz Aleksandur; Dzumayata is the café, or Oriental Dessert Shop as its sign announces, located on the ground floor of the mosque. Expat scene in PlovdivThe English Club of Plovdiv meets every Wednesday at 7pm for dinner at Union Restaurant (6 Mitropolit Paisii Str, 088/ 975 36 72; 11am-midnight) in Old Town. Rozenhoff Belgian Beer Café (36 Hristo Danov Str, 088/ 605 59 55; 9am-midnight) is the place to go for a wide selection of beers from not just Belgium, but also Holland, Australia, Croatia, Luxembourg, just to name a few. The establishment attracts a good mix of locals and foreigners appreciative of said beers, and the extensive menu gives even non-beer drinkers a reason to check out what all the hype at Rozenhoff is about. To satisfy your fetish for all things Latino, Casa de Cuba (118 Vassil Aprilov Bul, 032/ 649 604) is Plovdiv’s offering. The cocktails and rhythms here will transport you to lazy days in Havana. Salseros and salseras blowing into town should stop here to find out the latest on Plovdiv’s Latin dance scene. Planet Club (5 Ivan Andonov Str, 032/ 643 221; 9am-2am) is rumoured to be a hangout of certain exclusive organisations whose participants drive fancy black cars, but this place deserves mention for its wireless internet access. Don’t bring your laptop when you’re rushing to meet a deadline, though, because you never know when the thumping techno music will begin for the night. There is both indoor and outdoor seating and you’ll find more drink than food on its oversized menu. Surrounding areasPlovdiv’s location at the foot of Bulgaria’s Rhodope Mountains makes it a perfect base for planning your mountain excursion. Whether you’re a skier heading to Pamporovo mountain resort, southern Bulgaria’s most popular, or a nature enthusiast heading out to see the Smolyan Lakes, both places are nearly 100km south of Plovdiv proper and are easily accessible from Rhodope Bus Station (Macedonia Street, 032/ 697 607). Bachkovo Monastery is where Plovdivians head when they want to retreat from the “city” and breathe in some fresh Rhodope air. You’ll also find frescoes, icons and a small museum here. Twenty-nine km south of Plovdiv, a trip to Bachkovo can easily be completed in a day, with buses leaving every hour from Rhodope Bus Station. Assenovgrad, the most popular purveyor of mavrud, a Bulgarian native wine grape favourite, is also a town 19km southeast of Plovdiv. While we’re not sure that the winery offers wine tasting to the public, we know that the town boasts some churches, monasteries and even a fortress on a rocky limestone hill 130m above the town. Buses to Asenovgrad depart from the Rhodope station every 30 minutes. Hissarya is spa town 42km north of Plovdiv at the foothills of the Sredna Gora Mountains. In existence as a mineral bath resort since the first century BCE, the mineral water from this town is said to have curative effects on gastrointestinal, kidney and liver diseases. I suggest you don’t wait until a visit from these diseases before heading to Hissarya to indulge in some heavy duty relaxation at any one of the town’s spa centres. For buses to Hissarya, you’ll have to go to Plovdiv’s northern (Sever) bus station (2 Dimitar Stambolov Str, 032/ 953 705). Where to stay in PlovdivNot listed on any of Bulgaria’s hotel websites, Hotel-Bar Central (7 Konstantin Stoilov Str, 032/ 622 348) is a gem of a find and will help you score big with your out-of-town guests! In a great location just next to Djumayata at the foot of old town, this hotel looks and feels every bit as swanky on the inside as it does on the outside, without the swanky price tag. Book ahead because there are only four rooms, each large and with its own colour scheme. The penthouse unit even has a terrace for you to look out on the Kapana and the Old Town. Rooms are a steal at 60 leva a night. Alliance Hotel (7 Vassil Aprilov Str, 032/ 646 333) is convenient because of its location near the train and bus stations of Plovdiv. Rooms are clean with all the basic amenities including breakfast and a friendly front desk. There’s a decent restaurant downstairs and in case you don’t want to walk too far for a little disco action, the Nai Club is just a stone’s throw away at 13 Vassil Aprilov. Rooms at the Alliance start from 80 leva a night. By Sunnia Ko